Haunted watch movement within the impetus

Hairspring is the core of mechanical watches to work before the gossamer was invented, the mechanical clock rely on the pendulum as an oscillator to achieve energy segmentation and travel time, the seventeenth Century, Huygens invented the gossamer significantly reduced the size of the clock. Nowadays, we often say that the hairspring is the Balance Spring or Hair Spring on the balance wheel, although the Spring of Barrel Spring is also a kind of Spring. Gossamer appears, is a pocket watch, watch the foundation, but also the end of the glorious era of pendulum clock.


Pocket watch balance spring

The hairspring follows the physical laws of the wobble cycle. In the timepiece, the frequency of the hairspring balance wheel system is related to the moment of inertia of the hairspring. As a precision mechanical structure, the material of the hairspring has effective length, thickness, and width, all of which are essential to the whole system influences. Because of this, when mechanical watches continue to evolve today, gossamer is still measuring the highest technical strength of each watch factory threshold, the world can independently develop gossamer watch factory, very few.


Watch gossamer

From the early iron-based alloy hairspring material to the nickel-doped INVAR ferrous alloy hairspring to today's mainstream Nivarox hairspring, the hairspring material has evolved over the centuries for the material science to evolve and the watch industry is continually searching More perfect hairspring material. How to be perfect? ​​Because a watch often requires uninterrupted operation for several years or even decades, gossamer oscillations to reach a very alarming number of times (in accordance with the mainstream 4HZ vibration frequency, year round operation of the gossamer stretch and contraction A total of about 252 million times), so only a handful of metal alloys can be used to make hairspring. In addition, gossamer must also be able to withstand the impact of some external environment in daily life its impact mainly from temperature difference, then become more and more important anti-magnetic, the early twentieth century Nobel laureate Charles Edouard Guillaume invented the Invar alloy Solve this problem, at the same time have a certain anti-magnetic.


The Moritz Grossmann watch in Germany uses the Nivarox 1 hairspring

In 1931, the nickel-chrome alloy Nivarox hairspray developed by Dr. Straumann was made up of seven elements. This kind of weak magnetic metal alloy has good anti-oxidation and anti-deformation properties, anti-fracture, automatic compensation, no corrosion and good Thermal deformation coefficient, that is, have a good resistance to temperature performance. Because of this, Nivarox is widely used in the watch industry, and replaced the INVAR alloy hairspring to become the mainstream of the market. Today, the entire watchmaking industry, Nivarox has become the first choice for a home-grown gossamer watch and becomes a trump card by the Swatch Group, with over 95% of Swiss watch brands and some non-Swiss brands using Nivarox FAR The gossamer. As mentioned earlier, gossamer is a technical barrier products, with homemade gossamer strength watch factory, generally not outside, so Nivarox has become the dominant gypsum in the field. Although Nivarox still has other gossamer manufacturers such as Altokapa, Japan's Seiko and Citizen, the reason why Nivarox dominated the gossamer industry is its high price / performance ratio.


NOMOS self-made blue steel hairspring

Of course, Nivarox FAR company in addition to producing different specifications of the Nivarox hairspring, there are other hairspring, such as the use of Elm's nickel-chromium constant elasticity spring hairspring, than Nivarox better Anachron hairspring, customized for other companies hairspring Wait.

Silicon gossamer

In recent years, silicon gossamer in watchmaking continue to popularize, and the Swatch Group has begun to try to march to the low-end market, which is the modern watch industry for a new exploration of gossamer material. From metal alloys to non-metallic materials, it is likely to be a metamorphosis. For the time being, regardless of who invented silicon gossamer, for now, from the top brands Patek Philippe, Breguet, Athens, etc., to our familiar Omega, and pro-people such as the United States have launched a silicon-based gossamer.


Patek Philippe Spiromax gossamer

The Patek Philippe cutting-edge research project is silicon based, playing the trilogy of the silicon escapement including the Pulsomax pallet fork, the Silinvar escapement wheel and the Spiromax hairspring. Rolex launched in 2014, based on silicon material, the hairspring Syloxi applied to the 2236 automatic movement, it is noteworthy that this is a watch movement, Rolex successfully developed the excellent silicon hairspring, but not the mainstream Watch, it is precisely because of its inherent defects of silicon materials, Rolex that it is still not the most satisfactory material hairspring. Athens, Omega, Breguet, Jacques Drouot, Blancpain and other brands use silicon hairspring relatively frequently, silicon hairspring relative to the metal hairspring has a huge advantage, is completely free from the magnetic field, but the biggest flaw is too brittle.


Rolex Syloxi gossamer

A few years ago, the discussion of silicon gossamer is very frequent, the advantage is better than the metal alloy gossamer performance should be excellent, the drawback is damage can only be replaced, is not conducive to long-term development. If the watch is still available after 30 years, the corresponding parts may not have been matched, repaired or even matched to the appropriate metal springs. However, from the perspective of the market as a whole, most of the tables exist only for the moment, and can really survive for so long, after all, still a minority, so they may outweigh the disadvantages.


Mido Silicon Hassy Caliber 80 Belem Seira watch

Mido this year launched the Beilun Sai series 80-hour power reserve watch, the use of silicon material gossamer, which should be the first people in the current price of Silicon Tour Si watch. This means that silicon gossamer will no longer be lofty, is likely to be popular later, as the same year, the Swatch Group will be competitive pressure on the 80-hour long dynamic movement, once again in the low-end market, pull the absolute advantage .

Independent gossamer

Mentioned the voluntary gossamer, who is most likely to think of you? I would first think of Rolex Parachrom paramagnetic blue niobium gossamer, the official introduction of the information in the earthquake, anti-magnetic and so on than ordinary gossamer out of a level, but also the main force of Rolex gossamer. The accuracy of the Rolex is measured by time of travel, the actual performance is excellent, and the long life span of the watch can be maintained. Parachrom hairspring plays an important role.


Rolex Parachrom gossamer

Seiko and Japan's Tohoku University Materials Science Laboratory has developed Spron elastic material for Seiko watches the main spring and hairspring. Spron has a variety of specifications, of which the main clockwork is Spron 510, Spron 530 (high frequency movement), etc., and for the hairspring is Spron 610 and so on. Spron is a nickel-cobalt alloy with high strength, super elasticity, anti-corrosion, anti-magnetic and temperature resistance of the five major features are widely used in Seiko and some Japanese watches.


Seiko movement

In addition, there are some brands in the independent research and development of spring material, as well as some little-known hairspring material such as Richard Mille's AK 3 hairspring.

Gossamer structure


Around the hairspring

The different materials of hairspring, in essence, have laid the performance of hairspring, but still need some additional treatment, in order to play gossamer performance even better. Most of the time, the hairspring we see are flat, with a winding around the curve. In general, the Rao curve on this end is the Breguet-type terminal Shangrao (or Phillips terminal curve). This kind of curve appears because the end of the hairspring is fixed on the hairspring pile, which affects the concentricity of the hairspring stretching and contraction, thus affecting the travel time. Therefore, this part of the end is cut off by the curve Shangrao to reduce this effect.


Hairspring ends bold, triangular inner frame


Breguet double spring silk


Montblanc cylindrical hairspring


Product home hemispherical gossamer

In addition, there are many kinds of gossamer structure, here are a few examples, then have time to explain one by one.



This article is reprinted from the watch house, if you have any questions, please send an email to to contact us.

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